Why Marigold prohibited in Cometics?
On May 28th, 2021 the State Food and Drug Administration's announcement on updating the list of prohibited raw materials for cosmetics (No. 74, 2021) in which marigold flower (TAGETES ERECTA) extract and marigold flower (TAGETESERECTA) oil as prohibited raw materials for cosmetics.
That rises a question marigold extract or lutein is used as a food additive in many food categories such as dairy products, biscuits, beverages, etc. and also a qualified feed addiction . It is edible for both human and animal, why can't it be used in cosmetics? Is the safety food lower than that of cosmetics?
Marigold extract or lutein is a food additive and new food raw material
The main source of lutein and lutein esters is marigold flowers. Lutein is believed beneficial to eye health. It can be used in ordinary food. It is often used in eye care gummies and children's complementary foods and it is important ingredient of daily functional food. The national standard GB 26405-2011 is the normative standard for food additives - lutein which is made through process of saponification, extraction and refining in brief.
Moreover, the No. 12 document of the Ministry of Health in 2008 approved lutein ester (chemical name: lutein dipalmitate) as a new food raw material and it is made from is marigold flower by solvent , then dehydrated and vacuum concentration ,crushed , solvent extraction and other steps to produce.
The prescribed daily use of lutein ester is NMT 12 mg/day; the scope of use includes baked goods, dairy products, beverages, ready-to-eat cereals, frozen drinks, condiments and confectionery except infant food.
Marigold extract is allowed to be used in feed
On 9 March 2021, f Lutein-rich and lutein/zeaxanthin-rich extracts from Marigold
nthin extracts from Tagetes erecta) approved by European Union Regulation (EU) 2021/420 as a feed additive for poultry (except turkey) fattening and egg production, and small poultry fattening and egg production,
Lutein-rich extract is used for chicken fattening and small poultry fattening, hen laying and small poultry laying. The maximum content of total carotenoids in complete feed with a moisture content of 12% is 80 mg/kg; leaf yellow Vegetarian/zeaxanthin extract is used for chicken fattening and small poultry fattening, and the maximum content of total carotenoids in 12% moisture content complete feed is 80mg/kg when hens are laying eggs, while small poultry laying eggs 50mg/kg.
In China, marigold-derived lutein is also allowed to be used as a feed additive.
Why can't marigold extract be used in cosmetics?
As early as 1986, researchers have studied the safety of marigold extract; experiments show that marigold root extract contains more thiophene compounds. When applied to skin, it can cause uses irritation, the formation of blisters, threatens health and prohibitied in sunscreen care.
In 2005, the European Union Consumer Product Science Committee SCCP considered that marigold plant extracts and essential oils are phototoxic. Since there is no basis for a safe dosage, it was recommended that marigold plant extracts and essential oils (Tagetes erecta, Tagetes minuta and Tagetes patula extracts andoils ) prohibited in cosmetics.
Until 2013, the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) updated the information dossier on this type of substances, which determined the maximum allowable concentration of marigold plant extracts and essential oils when used in stop-gap cosmetics. is 0.01%.
Therefore, in 2015, the EU SCCS re-evaluated the extracts and essential oils of marigold, only for phototoxicity this time .